Potes

Potes is delightful; it is a historic little town with old winding streets and a number of old buildings which survived the Civil War. The most notable features are a large tower, the former mansion of the Marques de Santillana, and the mountain/riverside setting. Potes is a centre for mountain and river leisure activies and it would make a very useful base for exploring this part of the Picos de Europa.
 

The approach to Potes from the north is straight and fairly unattractive until you reach the edge of the old town. Drive through the centre and stop at the free car park on the right hand side of the road.
 

Shops

There are shops in the main street that sell detailed local maps and guide books; invest in both. You can also buy walking sticks, water bottles, socks and a range of walking and mountaineering equipment as well as postcards, pottery, T-shirts, liqueurs, cheese, and biscuits. There are two small and one slightly larger supermarket opposite the car park, but what we did not find was a baker or anywhere selling fresh rolls, bread, sandwiches or other provisions. Potes is a good place to buy presents and souvenirs. Postcards were only 20 euro cents and colour photo books about the local area from just €4. Bottles of the local Oruja liqueur were €9.90.
 

Near the church there is a wonderful old-fashioned ironmonger's shop, which sells everything you could possibly need for DIY, farming, walking, mountaineering, plus a range or inexpensive souvenirs. A Potes piggy bank for our youngest was €3.40. Cowbell key rings were €1.50 and a larger cowbell, suitable for summoning the family to supper, was €4.80 Also on sale were impressive spiked leather collars worn by the Pyrenean mountain dogs when guarding cattle. Be ready to wait while your purchases are slowly and painstakingly wrapped in paper. Think of the Two Ronnies "four candles" sketch … in Spanish. A fascinating shop, but don't go there if you are in a hurry!
 

Eating out

Have a drink and a raccione at one of the restaurants on the terrace below the town's bandstand. We stopped at the Bar Chente our first day in the Picos. Our scrambled egg with shrimps and meatballs in a spicy sauce with chips were cheap, tasty and filling. There are other cafes, restaurants and bars in streets leading away from the centre, so there is plenty of choice.
 

On another day, we sheltered from a thunderstorm in the bar of the Hotel Casa Cayo where two lemonades, a dish of peanuts and a dish of olives set us back just €2.40. As a bonus, there was a group of locals singing tunefully at the bar! We weren't sure if they were encouraging people in or scaring them away but they were good natured and we enjoyed the live entertainment. We drove back to the hotel in torrential rain.